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Jewelry designer and gallerist Kathy Rose hit the retail scene two decades ago with a tiny Sunset Boulevard storefront showcasing limited-edition clothing, jewelry and accessories from international artisans. After co-owning two retail store/galleries, she decided to strike out on her own two years ago with a new concept called Argyle & Valentine, a sort of elevated pop-up.
Instead of one permanent space, Rose now curates personalized one-on-one presentations for her clients, whom she calls “collectors,” in her Los Angeles showroom, or destinations like Aspen, Austin and Napa. Next month, she is also mounting a season-long residency in a former museum space that will boast visual art and sculpture along with jewelry. In addition to her rotating roster of vendors, Rose represents several jewelers, placing them in specialty boutiques worldwide. She also sells her own designs and remakes clients’ heirloom jewelry into new pieces. Here, she discusses why one-on-one feels right and how to create a memorable in-store experience.
—Written by Marcy Medina, edited by Bianca Prieto
How is Argyle & Valentine different from your last two retail gallery concepts?
It's a different space and model than my two previous galleries. The presentations are private, and we curate small collections within different spaces. It's more intentional and designed in themes for short periods of time (seasons or special events). To me, the curated model is more personal. It works better for our collectors, and I prefer working one-on-one. It’s about seeing what they already have and how we can curate the collection to go with it. That’s really the crux of my business. Inventory is smaller and tighter, which makes everything easier. It's also fresh because our artists rotate every quarter.
Jes MaHarry Summer Collection (Photo by Marco Gallico)
What do you look for when curating visual art for your gallery?
I'm drawn to artists that have developed a visual language that feels like their own. Those are the artists that I am most excited to champion and share with collectors. Often, they’re pieces that relate back to the jewelry. Charlie Walker’s mountain art contains mica and other natural elements. His work looks like jewelry for the walls. Watercolor artist Laura Ball also uses gemstone pigments like lapis and black tourmaline in her work.
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What should someone consider when creating an in-person shopping experience?
Curating a good collection of artists is number one. There is a lot of saturation in our business; everyone is a jewelry designer now. I prefer artists that are not mass-made. Having a range of pieces and prices is also a good strategy. We have things that range from small handmade items to higher-end custom pieces. Making sure there is something for every collector.
What's one mistake you made early on and what did it teach you?
Too many cooks in the kitchen. Building the right team requires patience and discernment. This has been one of the most valuable lessons in my career. Also, I never let an inquiry go unanswered. I get a lot of emails from designers who want to be in the store, and I have found some incredible collections this way—designers from Greece or small mountain towns–people I otherwise would not have discovered.
The SKUpe’s Take
Ultra-curated shopping experiences that feel special and unique stand out among cookie-cutter chain stores. Individualized presentations more akin to private showings for art collectors feel new and fresh, and managing a smaller amount of inventory streamlines operations.
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